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Article on Alibaug in the Times of India on 7th
August 2008
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Alibaug musings
For tourists craving for sand and sea, Alibaug is the getaway for you, points out Kunal Bhatia
Founded around three hundred years ago by a much-feared Maratha naval commander, the coastal stretches around Alibaug were strategic for Shivaji to maintain his supremacy. Today, the warring sides have been replaced by college students, families of four, honeymooners and every other Mumbaikar, who needs a quick respite from the hustle-bustle of the city. The reason why Alibaug is so favoured is because of its
accessibility just hop into a ferry, and lo behold you’re on the secluded beaches in less than two hours.
The black sands of Alibaug is the most popular stretch of beach here, complete with horse-carriages, balloon sellers, nariyalpaani and some hotels that overlook the sea. Laying a few hundred metres off the shore is the Kolaba Fort, built by Shivaji in the 17th Century, to keep a check on the growing naval powers of his opponents. Although accessible by wading through waist-level water during low tide, it’s best to fix up a deal with a tanga-wallah to take you to the fort and back. Though quite ruined over the ages, the fort continues to look unconquerable especially when seen during the high tide, with the waves lashing at its walls. Inside the fort are a couple of temples, canons and fabulous views of the shore.
A few kilometres south of Alibaug are the less frequented Akshi and Nagaon Beaches. The former is popular haunt with bird-watchers, while the latter is the launch pad for visiting the Kandheri and Undheri Forts. The forts are under the Bombay Port Trust, and prior permission is required to visit them. While we’d just prefer to plonk ourselves on a sandy spot or lie in a hammock, if you’re in the mood for further beachhopping, then drive on to
Kihim Beach. This vicinity is also happens to be the preferred choice for Mumbai’s-Mughals to build their dream-palaces away from the aam-janta of the city.
For those on the look out to mix spirituality with pleasure, visit the Kankeshwar Devasthan. Though the nearly 1000-steps climb may seem like a deterrent, if you huff-and-puff it out, you will be rewarded with ornate temples, green vistas, chirping birds and some soulful food. Speaking of food, it’s obviously rewarding to be a sea-food fan when in these parts. The prawns, Bombay duck, pomfrets and oysters are lip-smacking. The veggies needn’t pack anything from home either, everything from Gujarati thalis to Chinese noodles are available on the popular beaches. We’d suggest some simple Konkani vegfare instead.
FACT FILE
GETTING THERE:
Alibaug is 110km / 3 hrs drive to the south of Mumbai. Or take a 45-minute ferry from the Gateway of India to Mandwa Jetty, followed by a short bus ride into Alibaug. Check for the ferry schedule before hand, especially during the monsoons.
BEST TIME TO VISIT:
Throughout the year, with the drive being especially scenic during the monsoons. Staying options range from plush hotels to home stays.
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